Machining parts is assembled, explain the machine screw rod bearing all in all parts of the processing hole, the benefits are dispense with the screw rod bearing seat also bought and installed, which can reduce the manufacturing cost of engraving machine, to maximize the use of the effective length of each axis, is first assembled X-axis slide box
Connect the slide box on the lower plate, and Z axis screw axis and support:
Install the Z shaft assembly fixture includes a spindle:
The Z shaft assembly is mounted to the X axis sliding box:
Well here, engraving machine you most headache is already installed and completed:
Well, summarize the problems mentioned user: 1 bedplate is bought in TB, many, enter "industrial profiles" in the search bar OK, as to what connections also have, but I didn't use it, because I am directly with screw on the supporting plate.
2 bearing in various parts of the bearing hole on both sides with homemade bearing end cover the fixed bearing tight, in I y axis wire rod on the picture to see a bearing end cover, bearing and a screw rod fixed on the is screw end head with a screw bit of, in my Z axis screw pictures to see this thread, arrived with a fixed nut on the line, the reason I did not install is in order to better to take pictures of the inside structure
My 3 fixed axis is the axis in the side edge of a size corresponding to the size of the screw hole, with fixed cone screw
4 my machine processing size is (x 2) (Y - axis 350) (Z axis 60) machine size is bedplate 500X300 stand-alone weight 20kg (not including controller)
Ha ha should be friends, I come to talk about the problem of anodized aluminum alloy. Originally, I wanted to this problem in the wooden altar that there seems to be a bit of a digression, but to you Daren DIY fun and spirit, I still say, if the netizen thinks I shouldn't send this post here, please moderator to delete the following information, also welcome to the master to jointly explore DIY CNC machines:
Manual of anode Aluminum Alloy
Aluminum Alloy hard anodized surface film formed, the thickness of 30 ~ 50 m and hardness of about 500HV, with excellent corrosion resistance and wear resistance.
Here is how to make anode treatment at home
A condition: must be aluminum or aluminum alloy to anode.
Two, equipment: wapen (Tao Pen, Wagang can, as long as the resistance to acid corrosion, can put down parts on the line).
Three, power: 9.6V---12V battery or DC transformer
Solution: four, the concentration of 12% sulfuric acid (H2SO4) solution. (for example: 100 ml of solution sulfate accounted for 12 ml, 88 ml of water or electrolyte also seems to be (sell battery repair place)
Five, stainless steel plate (sheet) 2, is also
Six, a plurality of wires;
proceed as follows
Anode parts need to thoroughly remove the oil (including fingerprint, hand sweat, dirt, etc.) for example with lukewarm water, detergent scrub with water and rinse thoroughly and dry.
The stainless steel plate welding wire, stainless steel wire or perforation through the conductive, and together. The immersion solution and at both sides of the container are (close to the pelvic wall) negative DC power supply is switched on. In addition to have positive oil and dry parts of stainless steel wire for connecting the DC power. Immersed in the solution. For 60 minutes, be accomplished!!! If you want to present gun grey or black fog texture, anode to first sandblasting treatment of anode has just ended tweezers out (IOPP) placement of black or gray mineral dye solution. Want to color darker on the bubble for a long time. Anyway, what color what color is global!!! Finally, with warm machine lubricating oil all wipe the surface, making the sealing passivation, this method can keep the permanent color invariant.
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